Roof Care Before Winter in the Upper Skagit: A Fall Checklist

Why does the roof need attention before winter and not after?

Because repairs are cheaper, safer and more durable when the roof is dry and the days are long, and because the wet season finds every weak point at once. Climate tables put annual precipitation at Concrete near 70 to 75 inches, with November the wettest month. After the rains start, a leak is an emergency instead of a job.

A roof that has just come through summer is dry, and its flaws are easy to see and fix. By December it is wet, the light is short and roofers are busy with storm calls. The same repair costs more in time and stress in January than it does in September.

Autumn is also when debris falls. Needles, leaves and small branches settle in valleys and gutters right as the rain begins, and a clear roof at the start of the season stays clear longer. The calendar below sets out what to do and when.

What should you do about gutters and valleys?

Clear them of needles, leaves and moss, check that downspouts discharge away from the house, and look for sagging or loose sections. Valleys carry the most water on a roof, and a blocked one is a common leak. Do this in October, after most debris has fallen and before the rains settle in.

Gutters under tall conifers can fill within weeks. A blocked gutter overflows over the front edge, soaking the fascia and the lowest shingles. In the cold months, a blocked and frozen gutter adds weight and can pull away from the house.

Clear gutters from a stable platform, never from a ladder on soft ground. For second-storey runs or steep lots, hire it out. The service page on gutter repair and installation covers fixing sections that have sagged or leaked, and what to do about downspouts.

What should you look for on the roof itself?

From the yard, with binoculars, look for missing, curled or cracked shingles, bent or rusted flashing, moss mats, sagging lines, damaged vent boots and debris in the valleys. Note anything you see and book a roofer for it. Do not climb up, particularly if the roof is wet or mossy.

Walk around the house slowly, in morning or evening light when texture and shadow reveal curl and lift. Look at the places where the roof meets something else: chimneys, walls, skylights and vent pipes. These joints leak first.

Write down what you see and take dated photos. A roofer can plan a visit around your notes, and the record helps if you later claim for storm damage. If the roof is old, the guide on signs an older roof is near the end helps you judge whether repair or replacement is likely.

• Missing, curled, cracked or bare shingles, especially on the sun-facing and wind-facing slopes.
• Rust, gaps or lifted metal at chimneys, walls, valleys and vents.
• Cracked rubber boots around plumbing vent pipes.
• Moss mats, and debris packed into valleys or behind chimneys.
• Gutters pulled from the fascia, and soft or dark fascia boards.
• A sagging ridge or a dip in the roofline.

What should you do about moss and lifted shingles in the fall?

Remove light moss by hand in dry weather, re-seat or replace lifted tabs, and avoid pressure washing, which Oregon State University Extension says can damage shingles. October is the last good window. If zinc is used, avoid it on roofs with copper gutters or flashing, and check any strips already installed.

Moss going into the wet season is moss at its most active. A roof that enters November with a thick mat will stay saturated until spring, so a hand-brushed roof with debris cleared is a better starting point. Brushing is slow and best done by someone with fall protection.

Lifted tabs are the other fall job. A tab that stands up in October will catch wind and rain all winter. A roofer can re-fasten or replace it quickly in dry weather. The page on roof moss removal and prevention describes what treatment involves, and the guide on roof moss in the Skagit Valley sets out the cautions.

Which trees need attention before the storms?

Any tall tree that leans toward the house, has a dead top or has had its roots lifted by past storms, and any branch that overhangs the roof. Have an arborist assess them in autumn, when the ground is still firm. A fallen tree on a roof costs far more than trimming one beforehand.

Atmospheric-river storms bring wind onto saturated ground, which is when shallow-rooted conifers go over. Look at trees on neighboring lots as well. A tree you do not own can still land on your roof.

Branches over the roof also drop needles into valleys and keep the surface shaded and damp. Trimming them lets light in and reduces both debris and moss. The page on fallen tree roof damage describes what happens when a tree does come down.

What should you check in the attic?

On a dry day, use a flashlight from the hatch to look for stains on the roof boards, damp or matted insulation, daylight, rusted nail tips and frost marks. Check that eave vents are not blocked by insulation and that bathroom fans vent outdoors. Do not step off the joists, and do not walk on insulation.

Attic moisture in a wet climate often comes from the house, not the roof. Warm, humid air from showers, cooking and a wood stove rises and condenses on cold boards. You will see it as frost in winter and staining over time.

If you find signs, a roofer can tell condensation from a leak. The page on attic ventilation explains what a ventilation fix involves. Photograph what you find in autumn so you can compare it with the same view in spring.

What about barns, shops and outbuildings?

Check them with the house. Look for lifted metal panels, rusted or backed-out screws, a loose ridge cap, light visible from inside and any limb resting on the roof. Mention every structure on the property when you book, so the roofer can combine visits. Outbuildings are easy to forget until stored goods are wet.

Rural properties from Lyman to Acme often carry more roof in outbuildings than in the house. A leak over hay or equipment costs money quickly, and a barn that is left open through the wet season can rot from the top down. Walk the building inside on a bright day and look for pinholes of light.

If snow is a concern, think about what sits under the eaves. Metal can drop snow in one sheet onto a door or a stall. The pages on barn, shop and outbuilding roofing and metal roofing describe the options, including snow guards.

How do you book work with the mountain highway and the weather in mind?

Book early. WSDOT usually closes the North Cascades Highway between mid-November and mid-December, with the usual west-side gate at Newhalem, and winter storms slow roads throughout the valley. Roofers fill their schedules in autumn, and a house far up the valley is harder to fit in. Call in September.

Phones are answered 24/7, but a visit is scheduled when a roofer is free, and no time is promised. Distance matters: Concrete is about 10 kilometers from Rockport and more than 25 from Marblemount, and the furthest towns in the service area are over 50 kilometers away. Ask honestly how the roofer would schedule a visit to your address.

If the work is major, such as a replacement, remember that the best window is the dry months, so autumn is the time to get quotes, not the time to start. The roof inspection page explains how a pre-winter visit works, and the cost guide explains how to compare quotes.