Seamless aluminum gutters
Formed from a coil to the length of the run, so there are few seams to leak. They are the usual choice for new installations. They dent under a falling limb but are easy to replace by section.
Repairing, re-hanging and installing gutters that carry needle debris and months of rain.
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Needle and leaf debris overload gutters through the wet season, and an overflowing gutter soaks the fascia and the lowest shingles. Concrete Roofing connects Concrete homeowners with an independent local roofer who repairs, re-hangs and installs gutters and downspouts, and quotes the work in writing after an inspection.
A gutter is a simple device with a hard job in this valley. Late October brings the first storms, and for the next five months rain falls on most days. Every roof in the upper Skagit sends that water down a few inches of aluminum or steel into a downspout, and the whole system has to carry needles and leaves at the same time.
When it fails, the symptoms show up at the house rather than the gutter. Water sheets over the edge and runs down the siding. The fascia board behind the gutter turns dark and soft. The ground below turns to mud, and in the worst case water collects against the foundation. On the roof itself, a backed-up gutter leaves the lowest courses of shingles sitting in water.
Gutters are also the part of the roof system that other things attack. Snow sliding off a metal roof tears them off. A falling limb crushes them. Ice drags them down. A roofer who works on the roof deals with all of this in the same visit, which is the practical reason gutters are on a roofing site.
Because conifers shed needles year-round and small debris packs into the gutter, where it holds water and breaks down into sediment. Lots under tall trees can fill a gutter in weeks. A clogged gutter overflows at the front edge, and the water runs down the fascia and the siding.
Cleaning twice a year, in late autumn and again in spring, is a common routine in this part of the world. After a windstorm, check again. A short ladder is a hazard on soft, wet ground, so for second-storey runs a roofer or a professional cleaner is safer.
Trimming back branches over the roof reduces the load, and also lets sunlight dry the roof and gutter, which discourages moss. The guide on roof care before winter places gutter cleaning in the seasonal list.
It soaks the lowest shingles and the roof edge, rots the fascia and soffit, and can lift shingles with moss that spreads from the wet edge. Overflow can also push water into the wall. Gutters rarely fail by themselves; the damage they cause is more expensive than the gutter.
On a roof with moss problems, the lowest courses are usually the worst, and a leaking gutter is often why. Fixing the gutter before treating the moss gives the treatment a chance to last.
See roof moss removal and prevention for how moss is dealt with once the water is controlled.
Yes, but snow sliding off metal can tear them off. Roofers often use snow guards above the gutter, heavier hangers or no gutter at all on parts of the roof where snow slides. Ask about the options before choosing, especially over doors and walkways.
The right design depends on the roof pitch, the snow and what is below. A barn without a gutter can send a stream of water onto the ground that needs managing in other ways, such as a drip line of gravel. See metal roofing for more on how snow behaves.
Away from the foundation, onto ground that slopes away from the house, or into a drain line that carries the water to a safe outlet. Water pooling against the wall or running onto a driveway and freezing is a sign the downspout is discharging in the wrong place.
Rural lots often have no storm sewer, so the water goes into the ground, a ditch or a drain pipe on the owner's property. Check where your lot drains before choosing a design. Septic fields and wells are not places to send roof water, so ask the roofer to keep downspouts well clear.
Snow and ice add weight to gutters, and sliding snow from steep roofs can tear them off. Heavier hangers set closer together, strong fascia fastening and snow guards above the gutter help. Where snow slides regularly, some owners skip gutters on that stretch and manage runoff on the ground.
Ice is its own problem. A gutter full of frozen debris holds water and weight, and when it thaws and refreezes it can pull away. Keeping gutters clear going into winter is the most useful step.
Where the roof is metal, discuss the whole system with the roofer rather than adding gutters afterwards. The gutter, the snow guard and the roof edge are designed together or they fight each other.
By the roof area that drains to them and the amount of rain it receives. A large roof in a valley with roughly 70 to 75 inches of precipitation a year needs larger gutters and more downspouts than a small roof in a dry climate. A roofer sizes the system to the roof, not to a standard kit.
Many houses carry gutters that were sized for a smaller roof, before an addition changed the drainage. If water overshoots the gutter in a heavy downpour even when it is clean, the gutter or the number of downspouts is too small.
Wider gutters and larger downspouts cost a little more at installation and avoid the overflow that rots fascia. Ask the roofer what size they propose and what roof area each downspout serves.
Do not clean gutters from a ladder on soft or wet ground, and stay away from gutters near overhead power lines. Use a stable platform or hire it out.
The roofer walks the eaves from the ground, checking slope, hangers, seams, downspouts and where the water goes at the bottom.
Soft fascia holds no fasteners. If it is rotten, it is replaced before the gutter goes back. The first row of shingles and the drip edge are checked as well.
Debris comes out, seams are resealed, loose hangers are replaced and sections that have sagged are re-hung to the right slope.
Damaged or too-small gutters are replaced. Seamless aluminum is formed on site in long runs. Downspouts are sized to the roof area they serve.
Downspouts end away from the foundation, on splash blocks or into a drain line. The roofer tests the run with water where it is practical.
Formed from a coil to the length of the run, so there are few seams to leak. They are the usual choice for new installations. They dent under a falling limb but are easy to replace by section.
Short pieces joined with connectors. They are found on older houses and cheaper installs, and the joints are the usual leak points. Repair means resealing or replacing them.
Covers that keep out debris. In conifer country they help with needles, but fine debris and moss spores can still collect on top, so they reduce cleaning without ending it. Ask the roofer how a guard works with your roof edge.
No sourced gutter price exists for Concrete. The quote depends on the following.
| Job | Typical range | What it includes |
|---|---|---|
| Length of the run | Measured on site | Total eave length and the number of corners drive material and labor |
| Material | Quoted per material | Aluminum, steel and copper differ in price and in how they weather |
| Downspouts and drainage | In the scope | Number, size and where they discharge, including any buried drain line |
| Fascia and roof-edge repairs | Found once opened | Rotten fascia has to be replaced first and is priced separately |
| Height and access | Part of the quote | Two-storey eaves, steep ground and distance from the valley floor all add time |
The roofer prices the job in writing after inspecting the gutters and the roof edge.
Most gutter repair and installation calls are scheduled the same day when a technician is free, and you approve the price before any work starts.
Rain, needles, snow slide and limb strikes all test gutters in turn, and a house in the upper valley can see every one in a single winter. Choose hangers and fasteners for the load, not the minimum, and ask the roofer how the run is attached to the fascia.
Many rural houses have a long run of roofline in a single direction. A 40-foot eave pushes a lot of water to one corner, so downspouts may need to be larger or more numerous than on a suburban house.
Distance matters for scheduling. A simple re-hang is a small job at the end of a long drive. Ask the roofer whether they can combine it with another visit, such as a roof inspection or a moss treatment.
Cleaning moss off shingles and keeping it from coming back in a valley that stays damp most of the year.
Targeted repairs for shingles, valleys, edges and penetrations on upper Skagit valley roofs.
A roofer's look at the covering, flashing, valleys, gutters and attic, ahead of the wet season or after a blow.
Not sure if you're covered? Check your ZIP code.
Moss thrives in the Skagit valley because roughly 70 to 75 inches of precipitation a year, long cool winters and shade from conifers keep roofs damp.
Do the roof work in September and October, before the wet season starts in late October and before WSDOT usually closes the North Cascades Highway between mid-November and mid-December.
Twice a year is a common rule, and more under heavy conifer cover. Check again after a windstorm. Overflow at the front edge during rain is the sign it is overdue.
They can reduce how often you clean, but they do not remove the need. Fine debris still collects. Ask the roofer to explain how a guard works with your roof edge.
Seams, hangers and short sections can be repaired. Rusted, bent or badly sagging runs are replaced. The roofer should tell you which and why.
Not always. Metal roofs shed a lot of water and snow fast, and some buildings do better with a drip edge and ground drainage. It depends on the building and its use.
Normally not for repairs. Ask the building department if the work involves the roof edge or structure. The permit guide explains what to ask.
Often, but the water has to go somewhere safe, away from the foundation, septic fields and wells. Ask the roofer or a drainage contractor to plan the outlet, since rural lots rarely have storm sewers.